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IRAQ WARS
Home to foreign media, Iraq hotel gets makeover
by Staff Writers
Baghdad (AFP) March 19, 2013


Daily violence still mars Iraqi lives
Baghdad (AFP) March 19, 2013 - "I thought I would die," Umm Khudair said softly, her face streaked with tears.

The car bomb that ripped through a bird market in Baghdad a month ago remains vivid for her -- a bloody reminder of the violence that continues to plague Iraq, a decade after Saddam Hussein's ouster.

"I saw debris flying in all directions," she said, perched on a stool behind her stall selling mint, sage, thyme and other freshly-cut plants. "There were people wounded, and cars destroyed everywhere I looked."

The twin car bombs on February 8 struck Kadhimiyah, a mostly-Shiite area in north Baghdad, as people crowded the market to look at the doves and pigeons on offer.

In all, 17 people were killed and 45 others wounded.

Jawad and his brother Sajad, who both work in their father's fruit and vegetable stall near the bird market, were among those hurt.

"I was arranging the bananas when the bomb went off," Jawad recalled. "At first, I did not even feel as though I was injured."

"I first thought of my brother -- he was in his car in the parking lot. I went to see if he was there, but I could not find him. Finally, we got a call from the hospital, which told us he had been in emergency care, hurt."

"That was when the second explosion took place," the 21-year-old said.

Jawad managed to escape with light wounds to his leg, and is now in good health, but as he spoke, his father Dhorgam looked on nervously.

When he discussed the violence that Iraq still grapples with, Dhorgam spoke of the "tests" the country has faced since the beginning of its brutal sectarian war several years ago.

"Every day is worse than the last," Dhorgam muttered. "All the time, there are attacks. We are not safe."

"Sometimes," he admitted, "at night, I wake up in a start -- I feel as though I have heard an explosion."

Violence has declined dramatically since its peak in 2006 and 2007, but attacks remain common, with hundreds still killed on a monthly basis, according to an AFP tally.

Overall, at least 116,000 Iraqi civilians and more than 4,800 coalition troops died in Iraq between the outbreak of war in 2003 and the US withdrawal in 2011, according to an estimate published in the British medical journal The Lancet on Friday.

Britain-based Iraq Body Count, meanwhile, said on Sunday that at least 112,000 civilians have died since the invasion.

Baghdad in particular is still hit by regular bombings and shootings.

But whereas the worst of Iraq's violence, during which thousands were dying every month, was characterised as a sectarian war, now most of the deadliest attacks are claimed by Sunni militants linked to Al-Qaeda who are bent on destabilising the Shiite-led government.

Despite the still-high levels of violence, deadly attacks in Iraq rarely make the headlines internationally, and according to one top diplomat, little will change until the country's political leaders reform its institutions in a bid to address the root causes of violence.

"The answer to the violence is a political solution," Gyorgy Busztin, deputy head of the UN mission in Iraq, told AFP.

Busztin cited, among other things, strengthening the legal system and guaranteeing adequate representation of Iraq's various ethnic and religious communities in government departments.

He advocated "creating institutions that serve people, and are strong, and to make sure that no human rights abuses occur, to restore the rule of law."

"All of this, together, would contribute to creating a political system which would be conducive to reducing violence," he said.

At her stall in Kadhimiyah Umm Khudair continues to cry, especially when she thinks of the numerous family members lost to violence over the years.

Famous the world over for housing masses of foreign journalists during the US-led invasion of Iraq, the Palestine Hotel has since undergone a makeover and looks brand new. Now, all it needs are customers.

From employees cleaning dust off the faux marble to guards waiting to guide visitors through a metal detector, the 18-storey property's two-year facelift has it talking a big game since it reopened last year.

"We are a five-star establishment," hotel manager Fadhel Salman Hassan proudly declares. "We have 405 rooms, three bars."

As a sign of the majority government-owned hotel's clout in a city with frequent power outages, he adds, "by order of the minister of electricity, the power never cuts."

On the ground floor, Dhafer Thair Nuri and his fiancee Saja Ali Hashim are welcomed into a massive reception hall, where they are going to hold a big event for friends and relatives.

"The managers saw that we are a young couple looking to start our lives," Saja explains. "They gave us a good price."

Hassan, the hotel manager, enthuses, "This is not a hotel -- it is a tourist complex."

Once filled to the brim with foreign journalists, the Palestine's rates now start at $200 a night, and visitors can also enjoy cocktails at the panoramic 18th floor bar, where most drinks cost $15 or more.

But despite its best efforts, the hotel is still struggling to attract customers, with just a 35 percent occupancy rate, according to Hassan.

As a result, employees wait idle in hallways and lobbies, testimony to Baghdad's struggle in attracting a business clientele, to say nothing of deep-pocketed tourists.

"Iraq is safe," Hassan insists. "You can walk down the street safely."

Violence has indeed fallen from its peaks in 2006 and 2007, when Iraq was embroiled in a brutal sectarian war, but hundreds of Iraqis are still killed every month in attacks, many of them in Baghdad.

The Palestine was built in 1982, in the early years of Saddam Hussein's rule, and was managed by the Le Meridien group. The chain pulled out, however, after crushing sanctions were imposed on Iraq following Saddam's 1990 invasion of Kuwait.

But the hotel rose to international prominence a decade ago, during the invasion of Iraq.

"This was where foreign journalists stayed," says Patrick Forestier, a reporter for French weekly Paris Match who stayed in the hotel throughout March and April 2003, as foreign troops were taking control of the country.

"I saw the first American tanks on the streets of Baghdad" on April 8 2003, he recalls. In front of the Palestine, "people were applauding, but they were amazed."

"They could not imagine that the Americans were so close to Baghdad."

The following day, Forestier was again at the forefront of international attention, as a group of Iraqis, aided by American forces, famously pulled down a statue of Saddam on Firdos Square, directly outside the Palestine.

But along with being a viewpoint for journalists to watch the invasion progress, the Palestine also suffered its own wounds from the violence.

On April 8, 2003, a shell fired by an American tank crashed into the hotel.

"I felt everything shaking, and I lost consciousness," says Faleh Kheiber, who was a Reuters photographer at the time, and was on a balcony on the 15th floor of the hotel when the shell hit. Kheiber was left badly wounded.

"The last thing I remember is being blinded, but I managed to take some photos before falling down."

Two of his colleagues -- Spanish cameraman Jose Couso and his Reuters colleague Taras Protsyuk, from Ukraine -- were killed.

Their deaths sparked a major controversy: US forces insisted they thought they were being threatened by Iraqi snipers in the Palestine, but journalists have roundly said they saw no shots coming from the hotel.

The Palestine has been targeted since, as well.

In October 2005, the Palestine and the adjacent Ishtar Sheraton were hit by a massive blast that killed 17 people, and in January 2010, a series of coordinated bombings at hotels, among them the Palestine, left 36 dead.

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